The rear bumper on a 2001 Toyota Camry will only need to be removed if it is damaged, or if you want to replace it with an aftermarket body kit. In either case, you must have a few simple tools and about 1/2 hour to remove the bumper. You may want to have an assistant help you hold the bumper while you remove it so that you do not crack it or damage it during the removal process.
Difficulty:
Moderately Challenging
Instructions
things you'll need:
Socket wrench
Socket set
Flat head screwdriver
Jack
Jack stands
1
Raise the 2001 Camry on jack stands. Lift up on the rear jack point with a floor jack and place jack stands under the rear pinch welds. Then, lower the Camry onto the jack stands.
2
Reach behind the rear wheel and remove the rivets holding the wheel liner in place with a flat head screwdriver. Pry up on the rivets to pop them out.
3
Remove the screw bolts holding the bumper to the bumper support. You will need to access these from underneath the rear bumper.
4
Remove the screw bolts in the wheel well that hold the bumper in place.
The Toyota Corolla is a compact sedan that has been a staple of Toyota's lineup for many years. First introduced in the 1960s, it has been most popular in the United States since the 1990s. Replacing car speakers on a Toyota Corolla does require the removal of some body panels, but is appropriate for the do-it-yourselfer with some preparation and the proper tools
Difficulty:
Moderate
Instructions
things you'll need:
Philips screwdrivers
Flat blade screwdriver
Panel tool
10mm socket, with ratchet and extension
Drill
Replacing the front door speakers
1
Pry out the sail panel, the triangular plastic panel at the top leading edge of the door panel.
2
Take out the Philips screw from the trim behind the door release. Pry out the clip.
3
Pry up the the pad on the armrest and pull it off. Take out the Philips screws located beneath the pad.
4
Pry around the edges of the door panel to release it from the clips holding it in place on the door. When it's loose, lift the panel up and away from the door.
5
Drill out the rivets holding the speaker in place. Disconnect and remove the speaker.
6
Connect your new speaker and secure it in place with sheet metal screws. Test the speaker and reassemble the door panel.
Replacing the rear deck speakers
1
Push the brake light on the rear deck back toward the window to release it. Lift it up and out after disconnecting the wiring.
2
Pull out the two circular clips on the front edge of the rear deck panel. Then remove the seat belts from their slots on the rear deck.
3
Pull the rear deck toward the car interior to remove it.
4
Unscrew the four Philips screws holding each speaker in place, disconnect the wiring and remove the speaker.
5
Connect the new speaker, and mount in place with the Philips screws.
When a car gets rear-ended, sometimes the damage is so extensive that it's cost-prohibitive to fix. If a truck gets rear-ended, though, it's often enough to just buy a new bed. Finding a bed is easy, as many junkyards have parts. Replacing a Toyota truck bed isn't difficult, and should take 30 minutes with the help of a friend.
Difficulty:
Easy
Instructions
things you'll need:
Assistant
3/8-inch ratchet and socket set and 12-inch extension
Phillips head screwdriver
Replacement bed
1
Open the tailgate on the damaged bed and remove the taillights using a Phillips head screwdriver.
2
Unclip the light sockets from the taillights and push the wiring inside of the tailgate pocket and down onto the ground.
3
Unclip the harness that connects to the license plate lights. If there are any zip ties or clips securing the taillight harness to the bottom of the bed, undo them now so that there is nothing holding it to the bed.
4
Open the gas door and unscrew the gas filler neck from the bed using a Phillips head screwdriver. Push the gas filler neck in towards the bed. This way, when you're lifting off the bed the gas filler neck won't catch on the body.
5
Unbolt the bed from the frame using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket set.
6
With the help of your assistant, lift the bed off the chassis and place it to the side.
7
Install the replacement bed in the reverse order of disassembly.
Thank goodness for Toyota. They made working on the clutch pretty straightforward, and something quite doable for the average car owner with a little time and expertise.
Difficulty:
Moderately Challenging
Instructions
things you'll need:
Clutch fluid
Wheel blocks
Wrench and pliers
1
Look beneath the hood to see what the level of clutch fluid in the reservoir of the Toyota Camry is. The reservoir that's located near the left rear of the engine bay. Top off the fluid to the recommended level, and pump the clutch pedal to restore the pressure. If the fluid doesn't stay at the same level, you may have a leak in the system. Check the cylinders, the reservoir and the lines, and replace any faulty part.
2
Adjust the height of the clutch of the Toyota Camry. After putting the parking brake on, and putting a block behind the wheel, start up the engine and let it idle.
3
Move the shift lever into reverse, and let the gears connect as you adjust the clutch in the Toyota Camry.
4
Press the pedal down slowly and find out at what the distance of the stroke is between the point where the gears release point and "full stroke end position." Measure this distance and record it.
5
Loosen the "jam nut" that's located on the push rod of the Toyota Camry, and turn the rod around once or twice to the right. Test the clutch adjustment, and repeat if necessary.
How to change the serpentine belt on a Toyota Camry 4 cyl. car
change the serpentine belt on a Toyota Camry 4 cyl. car
I am not a mechanic and I hate to work on cars, but when the Toyota garage told me they would charge me $125 to change the serpentine belt on my 2002 Toyota Camry 4-cylinder engine, I revolted. I knew I could buy the belt for about $30. So for a potential savings of nearly $100, I was willing to give it a try. It's a bit challenging, but I paid for some expert advice and learned a lot, and now am willing to pass it on to you. If I can do it, you can, too.
Difficulty:
Moderately Challenging
Instructions
things you'll need:
Set of metric wrenches, including short and long extensions, and...
18mm or 3/4in. socket wrench
piece of pipe to extend wrench handle
courage, patience and endurance
1
This is what it looks like under the hood of a 2002 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder engine. Arrow points to the serpentine belt. Study the belt wrap so you know how it goes. It might be good to take a picture before you disturb anything. Also, the cardboard sleeve your new belt comes in should have one or more diagrams of how the belt should be wound. Note the diagram that matches your vehicle. The motor is mounted laterally, that is, across the engine compartment of the car. So the "front" of the engine actually faces the right front tire. I will call this the "end" of the motor. The side of the engine faces the front of the car. I will call this the "front" or "front side."
2
I have worked on older model cars, and I falsely assumed the first thing I had to do was loosen the alternator. Wrong! Leave the alternator alone! The first thing you have to do is remove this bracket on the front side of the motor using a 14 mm wrench. These and the next two brackets you will be removing are mounts to help keep the engine steady.
3
Next, remove the two bolts (red arrows) holding this bracket in place. There is a third bolt, slightly longer, that goes straight down just to the left of the picture. Before removing the bracket, remove the bolt holding the grounding wire to the bracket (yellow arrow). I suggest you put the bolt back in the hole so you don't lose it. Keep track of all your bolts.
4
Once you have removed the black bracket, there will be another bracket of machined metal under it. Remove the three bolts holding this bracket in place. Make sure you keep your bolts with their corresponding bracket.
5
All of this is to give you room to operate the tensoin control device (red arrow). Place a 19mm wrench (a 3/4" does just as well) on the nut and press forward (clockwise-note yellow arrow) hard for at least three seconds. The end of the handle will move three to ten inches, depending on how long a handle you have. The nut does not come off, but pressing forward allows it to release the tension on the belt. It helps to put a pipe over the handle of your socket wrench to give you more leverage. I used an 18" long piece of almuinum tubing from the leg of an old Weber grill, and once I had it pulled forward my wife was able to hold it in place while I slipped the belt off the top right pully (green arrow). Or you might be able to hold the wrench with one hand while you remove the belt from the pully with the other. Once the belt is removed from one pully, you can release the tension control nut. Finish removing the belt from the rest of the pullys, noting how it is wrapped as you remove it.
6
Next you loop the new belt around the respective pullys starting at the bottom and proceeding toward the top. There are two kinds of pullies. The pullies that have a little lip on the edge of the wheel do the actual work (red arrow). The pullies that are smooth and have slightly rounded edges are "idler" pulleys (green arrow): They just position the belt so it can grip the working pullies effectively. The grooved edge of the belt goes against the working pulleys; the smooth side of the belt goes against the idler pullies.
7
Once you have wrapped the belt around all the pullies except the top right one, you will have to release the tension control device, again, using your 19mm (or ¾") wrench (with extended handle). You have to hold it for at least 3 seconds before it releases. I actually managed to hold the wrench down with one hand while I slipped the belt over the last pully with the other hand. Then replace all the brackets and wire in the reverse order you removed them. Photo shows the new belt on and all the parts replaced.
8
I didn't know all this when I started, and it took me the better part of a Saturday afternoon. But I had removed some bolts I shouldn't have (I started to loosen the alternator), and forgot to put one back. So I had to undo all the brackets to replace the left-over bolt. I don't think it took me more thatn 20 minutes the second time. I didn't know all this then. I'm sharing what I learned so you can do it faster and with confidence. You can do it.
Tips & Warnings
Don't mess with the alternator. On the old cars, you replaced the V-belt by loosening the alternator. Not this one. Leave it alone. That's what got me in trouble.
Some people I consulted warned that the wrench could slip off the tension bolt and the wrench handle could spring up and hit you in the face. That was never even close to happening. But it is good to be reminded that that tension bolt has a very strong spring on it, so treat it respectfully, and make sure the wrench is squarely on it.
When your vehicle needs to be moved from one location to another, towing sometimes can be your only option. Towing a vehicle yourself versus having a professional tow it will save you money. Most towing companies charge a minimum of $50 per tow and milleage. The average tow bill can exceed $100. Someone with limited or no towing experience can complete the following steps for a worry free tow.
Difficulty:
Easy
Instructions
things you'll need:
Vehicle capable of towing the 2008 Toyota Corolla
Tow Dolly
1
Attach the tow dolly to the trailer hitch on the rear of the pulling vehicle.
2
Insert the safety pin from the tow dolly to the trailer hitch securing the connection.
3
Align the 2008 Toyota Corolla's front wheels with the ramps on the tow dolly.
4
Push or drive the vehicle onto the ramps and secure the tires using the straps.
5
Engage the hazard lights on the 2008 Toyota Corolla.
The Toyota Highlander was introduced in 2000 as Toyota's mid-size SUV crossover. The Highlander is built on the Toyota Camry's platform, but it offers its own engine and other components for the heavier, more powerful design needed in an SUV. A success in its market segment, the Highlander is now available as a hybrid vehicle. The Highlander comes in a variety of trim levels and engines as well as a manual or automatic transmission. Shifting the Highlander's automatic transmission into drive is a simple process unless there's a problem with the shift lock.
Difficulty:
Easy
Instructions
things you'll need:
Flat-head screwdriver
Normal Operation
1
Place the key in the ignition and turn to the "On" position. The Highlander does not need to be turned on, but the key does need to be turned to "On" to shift gears.
2
Press the brake pedal and push the lock release button on the shift lever.
3
Slide the shift lever until it lines up with the "D" for drive.
Shift Lock Inoperable or No Key
1
Set the parking brake.
2
Pry the shift lock override cover off with a flat-head screwdriver.
3
Press the brake pedal and push the shift lock override button.
4
Slide the shift lever until it lines up with the "D" for drive.
